Rotterdam: Not Perfect, Just Real
A City That Stays With You
I’m deeply attached to Rotterdam. I’m a true city person, shaped by the rawness and authenticity of this port city. What makes Rotterdam so special to me is its incredible diversity, around 170 nationalities, the whole world represented in one place. I grew up here, lived in different neighborhoods, and even though I spent many years in Hilversum, Rotterdam has always remained home.
Over the years, the city has changed tremendously, both architecturally and culturally, and only for the better. But what has never changed is its essence: real life, raw and direct.
Pim Schmitz, Advisor Talpa Holding
Seeing the City Through Different Eyes
One of the most powerful ways to experience that side of the city is through a tour organized by the Pauluskerk. This is not your typical guided walk. You’re led through the streets by people who have experienced homelessness themselves. They share their personal stories, how they became homeless, what it means to live on the streets, and how hard it is to rebuild a life. It’s raw, confronting, and deeply meaningful. The proceeds also go toward supporting people still facing these challenges.
A Taste of True Rotterdam
That same raw honesty can be found at Slagerij Schell, the oldest butcher shop in Rotterdam, dating back to 1796. This is no ordinary butcher. They follow a nose-to-tail philosophy: everything is used. From organs to blood, from goat to beef, pork, and chicken. And yes, even testicles, when available. As well as uierboord, a traditional Rotterdam delicacy made of sliced boiled cow udder, sometimes referred to as a working-class steak. Walking in, you’re immediately struck by a 25-meter display counter, overwhelming in the best possible way. This isn’t just a shop; it’s an experience.
Friday Night: Crossing the River
On Friday evening, I walk with a close friend toward the Kop van Zuid, crossing the Erasmusbrug. We start with drinks at Hotel New York, a place where history and the present come together.
Then we cross the Rijnhaven Bridge, locally nicknamed the “hoerenloper”, and head to De Matroos en Het Meisje. There’s no menu here; you simply eat what’s being cooked. Seasonal, honest dishes paired with a beautiful wine list featuring small-scale producers who respect nature.
After dinner, we walk back to Hotel Nhow Rotterdam and choose a room on the highest floor. The view over the city is stunning, the lights, the river Maas, and even Den Haag in the distance.
Slow Mornings & Hidden Nights
The next morning, we skip the hotel breakfast and go for a petit déjeuner at Louise Petit Restaurant. In the evening, this place transforms into La Soirée, a hidden cocktail bar inspired by the Prohibition era.
After breakfast, it’s time for culture. We find it hard to choose between Fenix, the Nederlands Fotomuseum housed in the monumental Santos warehouse, and the Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen. We might have to skip one due to time.
In the afternoon, we leave the city behind and go cycling through the Gooi and Vecht region. During the pandemic, I really got to know and appreciate this area, the forests, heathlands, and water landscapes offer a completely different kind of beauty.
In the evening, I head to Amsterdam to have dinner with the kids at Margaux, a classic French brasserie. We stay overnight at De Durgerdam, where time seems to slow down in a misty, water-rich landscape. The village, with its single long street, 17th-century houses, and views over the lake and surrounding polders, feels like a peaceful escape.
Back to the Harbor
The next morning, we take a walk along the water before I return to Rotterdam for lunch at Café De Ballentent. This iconic harbor pub was named “Harbor Pub of the Year” in 1997 by a jury of Rotterdam journalists, artists, politicians, and port industry figures. The award was established by the Slauerhoff Society and named after poet / writer / ship’s doctor Jan Slauerhoff, whose stories about life in port cities still seem to linger here.
After that, it’s time for football. We head to De Kuip to watch Feyenoord, and, of course, to see them win.
We end the day the right way: with dinner at River Bar, celebrating the victory while looking out over the Maas one last time.
Rotterdam isn’t perfect.
But it’s real.
And for me, there’s no place that comes close.
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